Lining and Skinning

Lining and Skinning

Once you have gone back through and are back at the point of having an outlined and fully quilted and stiffened pattern piece on a block of fabric, it's time to line. Iron out and lightly starch your lining fabric. Flip your pattern pieces over on the lining fabric so...

Fixing the Fit

Fixing the Fit

To start the fitting process, apply some sort of lacing rig to the side seams. I've used safety pins. I've also used just a cord machine stitched down the armhole edges and twine to lace it up with. Do this first as it's much more awkward to do with the front and back...

Several Spools Later…

Several Spools Later…

Now that you have a proto pattern civilized from the duct tape, and starched fabric, it's time to quilt the fabric layers together by machine. This is a machine approximation of hand pad stitching. Before you can quilt you need to take a look at the fabric you have on...

A Checkerboard for Ludwig Maltz der Brauer

A Checkerboard for Ludwig Maltz der Brauer

My lady wife Morgan Staghold kindly generated cutting diagrams for me for this project.  With 52 individual pieces out of the cream velveteen and another 52 pieces out fo the black velveteen, having a cutting diagram was crucial for the most efficient use of my...

The Very Guts of it!

The Very Guts of it!

Now that you have pattern pieces, it's time to begin fashioning the inner structure, "the guts", of your bodice. There is no set-in-stone rule for this. If you are of a slight build with an A cup, you could get away with two layers of quilting cotton, starched and...

Teal 1490s Underdress

Teal 1490s Underdress

For this 1490s Venetian underdress, I choose a lightweight-- almost tropical weight-- teal wool from Pendleton's.  This wool was purchased as two 3-yard remnants.  I found a lovely jacquard trim on Etsy to compliment it.  The trim came in the same pattern in two...

Taming the Feral Duct Tape Pattern

Taming the Feral Duct Tape Pattern

To get from feral tape double, to a useable pattern, we need to civilize it. I start by cutting it apart at the seams lines, and further removal of excess at armholes and below the waistline. Once I have the pieces in question laid out, I take a good look at them and...

Constructing a Floof Worthy of Doom

Doesn't look like much now, does it?  This is the beginning of the Great Floofening!  This is 8 yards of very light-weight pale pink-peach silk taffeta that is cut into panels and hung up to keep it safe from my cat Minimew. The joining of the inner layer panels was...

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