The pattern for the overdress is the same as the underdress but the front is not cut on a fold and instead has a deep U-shape at the center. I started with 2 layers of cotton duck for both bodice fronts, the bodice back, and both straps. I then machine-quilted these...
1490’s Sleeves
The upper sleeves started with two layers of cotton duck with boning channels for heavy plastic cable tie boning. The two layers of cotton duck were flatlined to the quilting cotton lining. The fashion fabric-- a navy cotton velveteen-- was then wrapped around the...
1490’s Under Gown
After completing two mock-ups to perfect the fit, I began on my actual dress. I started with 2 layers of cotton duck stitched together with boning channels for plastic boning--heavy-duty cable ties. The straps were just two layers of duck quilted together.Once these...
Construction of the Body Linen
The Yoke The first step in construction is to form the yoke itself. I did this part entirely by hand. I whip stitched through the folds of strips of linen. I almost always cut thin strips like this at double the required width, so to get a straight edge, all...
First Steps
The first step I always take is to make the bodice pattern. I do this to make sure I have the exact neckline measurements that I need for the body linen to fit as needed. I used a duct tape pattern ( made with Zanetta's help) and came up with a three part bodice...
1490’s Under Gown Mock-up v2
This Mock Up v2 of my 1490's Gamurra pattern was directly modified from the v1 Mock-Up that I had previously made out of the pale blue linen with embroidered flowers. To start with, I laid my pattern peices out from the v1 Mock Up and went over where I needed to take...
1490’s Under Gown Mock-up v1
This was Zanetta's first mock-up from a pattern Vittoria di Carduci helped her make. It was 2 layers of duck with the boning channels, another layer of duck on top, cotton lining, and then a fashion fabric of greenish-blue linen with embroidered flowers in pink. She...
1490’s Camica, Round 1
This was the first attempt at multiple things for Zanetta. First, it was the first attempt at a rectangular constructed camica pattern based solely on my measurements. Second, it was her first completely hand sewn garment using multiple techniques she had never...